DIY teleprompter glass, explained.
The frame is a hobby project. The glass is the part that either works properly or does not, and it is the part most guides gloss over.
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The frame is a hobby project. The glass is the part that either works properly or does not, and it is the part most guides gloss over.
Free plan · No download · No account · Nothing uploaded
DIY teleprompter builds need beam splitter glass with a coating, not plain window glass, which causes double-reflection ghosting. The industry standard is a 70/30 or 60/40 transmission-to-reflection coating on thin glass around 2mm thick, mounted at a 45-degree angle. Beam splitter glass is sold pre-cut in common sizes by teleprompter accessory sellers and on Amazon.
This is the mistake almost everyone makes on their first attempt, because it seems obvious: glass is glass. It is not. Plain window or picture-frame glass has no coating, so it reflects a little light off the front surface and a little more off the back surface, at slightly different angles. The result is a faint double image, called ghosting, sitting behind your actual reflection. It is subtle enough that you might not notice it staring at the glass, and completely obvious the moment you watch back footage shot through it.
Real teleprompter glass, called beam splitter glass, has a thin coating applied to one side specifically to control how much light reflects versus passes through, in a single clean layer rather than two competing ones. That coating is the entire product. Everything else is just a sheet of glass.
Beam splitter glass is sold by its transmission-to-reflection ratio. 70/30 means 70% of the light passes through the glass to the camera, and 30% reflects your screen back at your eyes. You will also see 60/40, which reflects a slightly brighter image at a small cost to how much light reaches the camera, and occasionally the ratio written the other way round as 30R/70T. It's the same measurement, just ordered differently, so check which number has the R and which has the T rather than assuming.
70/30 is the industry default and the right choice for most setups: bright enough to read the reflection comfortably while leaving the camera plenty of light to work with. 60/40 is worth considering only if you are shooting in a dim room and struggling to read the screen, since the trade-off is a slightly darker image for the camera.
The glass needs to be at least as large as the screen it's reflecting, measured diagonally, because it sits at an angle and you're viewing it from further back than the screen itself. Common pre-cut sizes track common device sizes for this reason: a 12-inch sheet for a phone or small tablet, 14 to 17 inches for a full-size tablet or a small monitor. If your screen falls between sizes, size up rather than down. A slightly oversized sheet just means a bit more frame around the edge; an undersized one crops your own text.
Thickness matters more than people expect. Most teleprompter-grade sheets run close to 2mm, thin enough to keep the reflection sharp. Thicker glass — anything closer to what you'd use for a tabletop or a picture frame — introduces its own faint secondary reflection between the front and back surfaces, which is a milder version of the same ghosting problem plain glass has.
The glass sits between your camera and your subject at a 45-degree angle. At that specific angle, the screen below reflects straight up into your eyes while the camera behind the glass looks straight through it at whoever is being filmed. Steeper or shallower angles still sort of work but throw the reflection off-centre from where your eyes naturally rest, which quietly reintroduces the off-axis look a teleprompter is supposed to eliminate. Build the frame to hold the glass at 45 degrees deliberately, not by eye.
Where to actually buy it
Handling and mounting
The reflection off any mirror or beam splitter flips the image horizontally, so whatever is on the screen underneath needs to be pre-flipped for it to read correctly once it bounces up at you. This is what mirror mode does in software, and it is the single most common thing people forget after finally getting the glass itself right — you'll assemble the whole rig, turn it on, and be reading backwards. More on mirror mode.
No. Plain glass has no coating and reflects light off both surfaces slightly differently, producing a visible double image called ghosting. You need beam splitter glass, which has a coating applied specifically to control the reflection.
It is the transmission-to-reflection ratio: 70% of light passes through to the camera, 30% reflects your screen back to your eyes. It is the industry standard ratio. 60/40 gives a brighter reflection at a small cost to how much light reaches the camera.
At least as large as your screen measured diagonally, since it sits at an angle and is viewed from further back. 12 inches suits a phone or small tablet, 14 to 17 inches suits a full-size tablet. Size up rather than down if unsure.
At 45 degrees the screen below reflects straight up to your eyes while the camera behind the glass looks straight through at you. Other angles still work loosely but shift the reflection off-centre from where your eyes naturally sit.
Nothing wrong with the build — the reflection flips the image, so the display needs to show the text pre-flipped. Turn on mirror mode in your prompter software and it will read correctly.